I posted a while ago about my excitement over using an old wedding credit to "purchase" a 12 quart multi-pot at Williams-Sonoma for Hanukkah this year. Well today - due to this still-lingering cold and to a large unused chicken sitting in my fridge - I am inaugurating my new stock pot with a large batch of chicken stock/soup.

One of the greatest benefits of my year without a 9 to 5 job has been the ability to cook more often and to spend time making homemade versions of commonly used kitchen goods such as stocks, which have become one of my very favorite things to make.

Stock is definitely Cooking 101, but it gives me pleasure disproportionate to its difficulty. I don't know what it is about making chicken stock at home that's so satisfying. It plays neatly into my domestic goddess aspirations, makes my house smell good, and allows me to freestyle in the kitchen to great success. Afterwards, I get such a silly pleasure out of opening my freezer and seeing stacks of containers of homemade stock. I get an even greater pleasure out of using said containers in more culinary adventures. Over the past year or so, I've truly come to believe that everything that you hear about homemade stock really making a difference in recipes is definitely true. (Thus, you can imagine how excited I am to have a pot large enough to fit a whole chicken (plus some random extra pieces) and all the yummy veggies and spices and such without boiling over and demanding my constant attention.)

So today, bubbling slowly away on my stove we have the following:

- A whole organic chicken, chopped somewhat skillfully into quarters by yours truly and defatted a bit.
- Two extra legs and thighs (there's room!)
- 4 large carrots, peeled and roughly chopped
- a handful of the leafiest celery stalks I could find at the store
- 2 white onions, peeled and cut in quarters
- 2 slices from the middle of a lemon (I used to use an entire lemon half, but I think it makes the stock a bit bitter)
- a big cheesecloth bundle (a "bouquet garni" with additional improvisation) containing fresh parsley, thyme, rosemary, dill, peppercorns, three garlic cloves, a bay leaf or two, and a few big strips of lemon zest
- a little teabag with a scoop of Fines Herbes (parsley, chervil, chive, tarragon) since my little teaball didn't want to stay closed in the stock last time
- salt
- a whole heck of a lot of filtered water

Leeks are a nice addition to stock, but I didn't think to pick them up at the grocery store today. I've made stock with root vegetables before (turnips and parsnips) and it results in a very deep, mellow flavor which is delicious but I think too pronounced to use in most dishes. What I've discovered is the more effort I put into the bouquet garni and the other spices the better; the carrots, onions, and celery are a nice standard base and I really don't need more than that.

You can use the bones from roast chicken or leftovers, and I've done that, but I like to make stock with fresh chicken when I can; I use the chicken for soup afterwards, or make chicken salad. (In fact, I have some homemade mayonnaise in the refrigerator now that would be perfect for chicken salad.) Everything just bubbles away on the stove (bring to a boil, reduce to a low simmer, and simmer uncovered, covered, it really doesn't make that much of a difference, though I prefer uncovered for the water to reduce and the flavors to concentrate) for at least 2 hours. Strain, toss everything but the stock (and the chicken, if you're using fresh), and refrigerate for a bit if you want to defat it.

Enjoy the smell of your house for the rest of the evening.